Yorkie Poo's average about $400 to $1000. Some general tips about breeders provided you've considered all the other costs and responsibilities of a pet and can afford it and whether their right for you :-): Breeders: Try to stay away from any breeder that uses the words teacup, micro, mini, pocket or any other term beside bigger,smaller, or gives weights and ranges. A yorkie (or poo as the case may be :-). Is a yorkie (poo) whether they are 2 pounds (extra care, more health issues one of the main being liver shunt so get it checked ASAP, and usually a much shorter life span) or 15 pounds :-). There is no such thing. A breeder who uses these terms tends to indicate one of two things. They either know those terms do not exist and use them as a sales tactic which doesn't indicate a high level of honesty or ethics (and many tend to end up larger) OR they DON'T know those terms don't exist and just are not particularly knowledgeable about their breed, breeding, health or much of anything usually (many term these as back yard breeders) though they may have good intentions. Do they at least explain? In both cases the reasons for breeding and the RESULTS of the breeding are probably not what you want to base your new family member whom YOU are responsible for, for the rest of its life on. Problems happen no matter how good you are because they are living things even when everything seems perfect, do you really want to buy from a breeder that is unwilling or can't at least educate you (much less any of the other things involved) and offer advice when needed? If your vet does not specialize in your breed you may have to heavily rely on the advice and knowledge of your breeder (in conjunction with the vet) as hopefully they DO know the breed. Make sure Mom is at least two or was the first time she was bred. Avoid anyone who breeds every heat as well. Again, we're probably back to someone who knows and doesn't care or hasn't put in the work and lacks the knowledge both of which can mean some major problems for you and your pup not to mention that poor mom. If you've never seen a prolapsed uterus thanks to an exhausted womb, it just breaks your heart that if they had just been a little more concerned about their dog (cats too) instead of producing pups she might not be in that position. They give so much to a litter of pups, what's left if it's done again so soon? If they do not health test and provide you with the documentation ask if you can have the number to their vet and permission to allow the vet to talk to you (really it's a good idea to do this whenever possible). Make sure you call. Be sure to ask about knees and any other issues you maybe should be concerned about. If the vet has no idea who the dog is (there should at least be a record of a thorough exam preferably more though many breeders do their own vaccinations) that's concerning. Hopefully they have or will have at least a physical exam done on the pup if/when old enough and will provide proof of this. Not a health certificate for traveling but an actual full blown exam. They are different. A puppy can pass for a health certificate with many problems because a health certificate is for different purposes (No obvious signs of contagious disease or illness) in general. Even receipts usually distinguish a charge for an exam or wellness check and a health certificate. If you are buying a puppy that is supposed to be registered ask for the registry information and the parents numbers so you can double check the parents ARE registered and maybe if they have already registered the litter (this is often done later but should be done before your pup goes home even if a contract says you don't get papers until you provide proof of spay or neuter). How does Mom look (keep in mind many nursing dams can appear a little skinny)? Will they let you meet her? Do they have a written contract that pertains to the purchase and the health of the puppy and what they are willing to take responsibility for? Make sure you read this, understand it, and agree because they DO NOT change later. Try to read it like you're actually IN the situation and not as a new exited puppy parent who doesn't think anything can possibly go wrong, it CAN and DOES even with the best of breeders, they are living things. If they say they don't need a contract because there's nothing wrong with any of their dogs and have never had any problems with previous litters I'd pass. It doesn't work like that. There are plenty of contracts available online and reading as many as you can may help give you a better understanding of what you want and what most tend to say. Make sure your expectations are reasonable. The puppy should not leave its mother and any littermates until a minimum of 8 weeks though 10 to 12 is actually preferred for a smaller pup. NO, hybrids, mutts, designer dogs, whatever someone wants to call them are not healthier than purebreds because they are a mix. Hopefully you'll be able to find the perfect pup from a good rescue or shelter who really needs a home. Good luck. There are tons of similar dogs on here unless you were just curious or checking on a price from a breeder. www.petfinder.com
