Cockatiels are naturally good breeders and the mutated colour types are especially bred to encourage early and prolific laying. You are doing the right thing by letting her sit on the egg for three weeks, the sooner you remove the egg(s), the sooner the cycle will recommence. If you have a mutant coloured variety this can be especially difficult and a continuous battle but they will eventually (3 months - 5 years) grow out of it. Often owners artificially create the ideal breeding environment unknowingly. Here are a few tips to counteract the environmental signals that say, "it's time to breed". 1. Give your cockatiel a minimum of 12 to 14 hours bedtime (darkness) each night. Even if she is night-terror sufferer (which is unlikely for a good breeder) try to minimise the brightness of the night-light or even try turning it off. When the breeding behaviour stops stick to 12 hrs darkness per night. 2. Dietary fat is by far the biggest breeding trigger and branded cockatiel seed mix is usually the culprit. Give only 1 teaspoon of seed mix per day (that's being generous) and make sure there are absolutely no sunflower seeds in the mix because these are especially fatty. I pick all the sunflower seeds out by hand it takes hours. Give plenty of cockatiel crumble (i.e. Vetafarm parrot pellets and/or Dr Mac's organic pellets), fresh green spinach, fresh green grass seed, silver beet, fresh organic corn and salad rocket daily. Never allow Cockatiels to nibble potato chips, corn chips, butter, or nuts these put their fat levels through the roof. 3. Another big mistake people make is arousing their tiels by giving them head-rubs. If you watch native cockatiels as I do, in inland Australia you will observe that only mating pairs head rub. Head-rubs are not cute and comforting to cockatiels: Head-rubs are foreplay and signal "I'm up for it!". Whatever you do never rub her down the back because this feels just like copulation to tiels and will bring on a cycle instantly. 4. Reorganising things in her cage can throw her off a breeding cycle. 5. Block up any "nesting" sites that she finds if you let her fly around during the day. 6. If she is laying every 3 weeks she might be seriously calcium deficient and should be assessed by a specialist avian vet, who may diagnose that she needs supplemental drops for a while. Please don't buy calcium drops to self medicate her because if she is not calcium deficient you can do more harm than good. 7. Mix up her daily routine: For example - if she comes into the shower with you then try to change shower times if you can. 8. Do not over heat her area temperatures above 75 F degrees / 24 C degrees combined with these other points will put her in the mood. 9. Finally cross your fingers: Remember, if she is a mutant colour type you might be up for a battle over the next few years till she grows out of it but usually these steps resolve the problem quickly. If she's not a mutant colour then by following the suggestions above will very quickly nip this stage in the bud. Cockatiels are undoubtedly one of the best, friendliest, and cheeriest of all bird pets. Good Luck!
Well I've heard this advice for zebra finches who keep laying eggs - so maybe it will work for you cockatiel...
Just remove all of the nesting materials or things that can be used to make a nest; feathers, grass or plants) from the cage. And if the cockatiel has a nest, then remove that too.
Just remove all of the nesting materials or things that can be used to make a nest; feathers, grass or plants) from the cage. And if the cockatiel has a nest, then remove that too.
If you cannot get her to stop laying your avian vet will probably have other more medical suggestions to prolong your 'tiels life and hopefully help her and you both have an easier time of it. Good Luck!
You have to try to give it infertility pills. . .